green-burgundian

For the brocade, I would have prefered a green and black contrasted jacquard but this brocade is all that I could find. I dont like it because it shines a lot, but at least it's exactly the shade of moss green that I was going for. I've decided to finish the hem and colar with velvet instead or fur. I've had bad experiences with my other gown. Down here in Canada it's always either raining or snowing so, the bottom of the gown gets heavily wet and, even after a 10 hour event and banquet, it's still not dry. The only thing it's good for is mopping the floor and than, you get a hell of a good time getting it cleaned ! Note that I'll only be trimming with the velvet as compared to a full linning which would normaly form the guard and cuffs & neckline turnovers.

I'll have to make two sets of kirtles because I need the first one to be green for a photography project that I'll be working on this summer. Unfortunatly, green on green isn't verry period so I'll make another one as well, probably redish or russet. I'll also make a placket to pin underneat the cleavage of the gown onto the kirtle.

The gown is a simple pullover dress so, besides of optionnal cords on the placket to keep the dress from falling backwards or from the shoulders, it doesn't need any kind of additional lacing or opening. I won't be adding strings to this one anyway.

This is the best exemple you can find of the gown without the belt on... Sorry for the snake thing, it represents Cleopatra !

Unless it's a verry complicated piece (like the sleeves on my florentine gown), I never use or make a pattern, I generaly cut directly into the fabric. But if you need to make yourself a patern for guidelines, here's the only thing you should have to worry about for this one; There's no waistline, it's all in one piece. The bodice measurements should correspond to yours if you want a good fit and than, from the armcye point to the hem, you go has wide as the fabric permits you to go. I've never seen evidence of gores on the front of these gowns and I've never seen any on the sides neither so, unless your textile is less than 56'' wide, you'll only need a generous one in the back.

After reflexion, I've decided to make a shorter neck opening and a rounder collar, a little like these ones. Why ? Because lower "V" openings means lacing or strings over placket and as I mentionned before, I don't want to do that. I wan't this dress to be totaly different than my russet one. Plus, people who know me a little bit are aware that I'm not really into typical styles and fashions... It's gonna look a little like these but particularly like the first exemple...

Well, I'm done with the dress and I've made a black placket for now. The dress is 5m. wide at the bottom. The only thing that I'm not satisfied with is that, I had to make the sleeves a little wider to let the hand go through and even then, the fabric is so thick and 0% stretchable, it still cuts into my skin when I bend my elbows too much. But other than that, it's quite comfortable and I think it looks very nice. Tomorrow, I'll start working on the belt and possibly on the green kirtle too. If I have the time, I may also start working on the headdress.

Well, nothing much since my last update. I haven't been feeling good for the last week so basicaly, all I did was some web and library research for my next projects. I'm almost done with the hennin though. I've made it with the velvet left-over from my dark green Tudor gown. You'll be totally laughting but, contrary to my russet one, which I've made with 3pt cardboad-bristol, I've made this one out of my son's crazy carpet! For those of you who don't have snow and are wondering what that is... It's a rectangular plastic sheet with handles that kids use to go tobogganing! Heh! I've decided to use plastic even if it makes it less period because with my other one, I'm always afraid that it will rain or that I'll sweat and it's gonna get all wet and saggy.

If you wish to make one, here's an approximative pattern of what it should look like before you put it together. The bottom should be about an inch larger than your head's measurements (plus the seams of course). The curve is meant to have it sit correctly on your head without falling back, even with a leaning angle. That's a pattern that I use for hennins with a black hood and turnover. If you're making a hennin that isn't gonna have a turnover, you might want to make the center "outer-curve" less obvious. I make it this way so that it covers my hair completely. Here's a guideline...

Well folks, my hennin is done and over with ! The inclination is less evident than for my russet one. I've made the flaps of the hood longer also and this one isn't split in the back, it's full and longer. My theory is that, this *should* technicaly be a simple hennin worn over a beggin-hood. The only thing that bugs me is that I didn't have any black horse-tail hair left and I don't plan on going on a ranch for a while so for the time being, I've made the loop with synthetic hair, I'll change it later when I get the chance. The belt has been put on hold 'cause the contraption I had to install the huge grommets broke, but I got another one so hopefully, I will manage to finish it within the next few days...

I've just finished the belt. It was such hard work! I broke half of my nails, I have no more skin left on the tip of my right fingers and I have muscle pain from my shoulders down to my biceps, to the back of my hands! But it was totaly worth it, It looks like a million buck!

I decided to reproduce this one but in black though. I made the gold loops by using really big gromets that I wacked only on the first layer of velvet. I boned the lining with thick leather and than have put it together so that when you look through the wholes of the grommets, it's actualy black material from the facing that you can make out. If I had riveted the grommets trough the whole thing, you would actualy be able to see the fabric of the gown through there. The buckle is custom made. I used one of those 1960's gold napkin holder and saw it up in two. I than fixed some hooks under it and voilà !

Never mind what I said about the loop... I found some natural hair so, it has already been fixed... Here it is... It's not the best quality picture but for now, it will have to do...

I'm thinking of going with breast-taping the next time that I'll wear this dress, to help support the weight and help the belt staying in it's up-right position. It keeps sliping down because my breasts are too heavy and the kirtle isn't supportive enough. It would normaly be at least 3 inches higher than it is on these pictures.

***Please take note this since I wrote that diary, I came across some evidence of double-kirtles being worn underneat the "V" neck gowns. So I no longer believe in the placket theory.***