As I mentionned before, I've tried virtualy every possible construction theories in the book. The overall look is always basicaly the same, it's the adjustments and fitting that makes all the difference.
This is what I call "The generic construction". It consists of plain geometrical shapes. These 2 kirtles have been constructed essentialy the same way. The only main difference is the sleeve pattern. However, you'll find that they look very different, one even makes me look 20 pounds heavier than the other while I was in fact 5 pounds lighter back then. This is why ; The second kirtle's basic rectangle shapes were cut to my waist measure and I've added a flare at the bust area. The first kirtle was made to an average size based on my waist & hips' measurements and a gusset was added under the arm to add room for the bust. The tip of the side gores on the second kirtle lay just "over" the hip bone as opposed to the first kirtle where the tip of the gores sit on the side of the hip bone. Note that the first kirtle was lined with linen and the second one isn't lined. The first gown was mainly sewn by machine and finished by hand while the second one isn't lined and was entirely sewn by hand, all seams are opened and hemstitched flat. Both kirtles are spiral laced and the eyelets are sewn by hand. Also note that the first kirtle was my very first attempt at this sort of garment and with the second one, I've had 3 years of practice at this.